PCADSL BLOG

A compact crossover SUV, the Ford Motor Company had scheduled the Ford Escape?s first appearance in 2001. Pricing for this vehicle was made lower than the Ford Explorer. This vehicle was jointly developed by the Ford Motor Company and Mazda. In Europe, this SUV is more known as the Ford Maverick. It is also built on the Ford CD2 platform.

Last year, the Ford Escape was updated with a new base engine which was the 2.3 liter Duratec 23. It also had additional features that included added airbag, seatbelt safety system, an intelligent all wheel drive system, and changes done to its exterior. However, the recline feature of the rear seats were erased. This vehicle offers a good balance of sport and utility, with a better interior and with improved engine.

The new 2006 Ford Escape is a small and affordable sport utility vehicle. For a relatively affordable price, this vehicle offers a smooth ride and easy comfort. Space is something that the Ford Escape could afford to provide ? for cargo and for passengers as well. All rolled in one vehicle are grace, style, and comfort.

This vehicle has been made available in three trim levels which comprises of the XLS, the XLT, and the Limited. Among all these three trims, the common features include a capacity of four passengers, a brisk acceleration that is powered by strong engines, a front wheel drive (2WD) or four wheel drive (4WD), and a maximum towing capacity of 3,500 pounds.

The 2006 Ford Escape XLS has air conditioning, illuminated remote entry, power windows and mirrors, a tilt steering column, a center console, 15-inch steel wheels, and an AM/FM/CD/cassette audio system that has a clock built in. For the XLT trim, features include an automatic transmission, a four-wheel anti-lock brakes (ABS), premium cloth upholstery, a power driver?s seat, privacy glass, a power moonroof, cruise control, a cargo cover, a convenience net, fog lights, and an in-dash six-CD changer. As for the 2006 Ford Escape Limited, it is made available with premium leather seats, seat heaters, front side-impact air bags, dual front sun visors with illuminated vanity mirrors, an auto-dimming rearview mirror, heated exterior mirrors, a reverse sensing system, and a MACH audio in-dash six-CD changer with automatic volume control. It has been also done in with a monochrome exterior, plus a body-colored trim and bright-machined 16-inch aluminum wheels.

Auto Parts Corner manufactures and sells aftermarket performance products and accessories for Ford vehicles. Auto Parts Corner strives to be the ultimate source for performance products and accessories. The online store?s product line up for Ford Escape parts include A/C condensers, lights, bumpers, hoods, fenders, spoilers, radiators, and a variety of additional upgrades that compliment the vehicle.

In a nutshell, the 2006 Ford Escape has the ability and capability for great acceleration. Its taut suspension makes the vehicle run with smooth handling and performance. It provides great facilities for carrying cargo of any type, since the interiors provide a not so limited space for all your cargo and for the passengers.

How could muscle cars, the most powerful affordable cars the world had seen, lose their oomph so quickly? What caused them to disappear? I?m not a private eye, not remotely like one, but this was one case I had to solve.

It happened back in the 70?s, but the evidence was still there. It was the case of the disappearing horsepower and this is what happened.

In the era of the muscle car power was everything. It didn?t matter what it was, sports car, family car, pickup; it had the biggest V-8 possible stuffed under the hood. Cubic inches were king and advertised power was astronomical. These cars could kick sand in the windscreens of anything else on the road.

But then horsepower seemed to disappear overnight!

Take my favourite muscle car, the Ford Mustang. The macho models had V-8s, though meeker models came with an inline six. The biggest six had 200 cubic inches and 155 hp in 1969/70.

What did the V-8s punch out? The most powerful 351 gave 300 hp in 1970 and the 427 gave a massive 390 hp in 1968. But by 1973 the most powerful Mustang had a 351 V-8 with just 156 hp. Almost half what it had in 1970, and only one horsepower more than the 200 cu in six of 1970! As for the Mustang II of 1974, we won?t even go there.

The story was similar with the other manufacturers. What was going on? It just didn?t add up. Could I trust the figures?

My detective mentor, Agatha Christie, taught me that when you?re solving a case you can?t trust anyone. Murderers do lie. In this case it wasn?t murder though it was the death of the muscle car, and it wasn?t so much of an outright lie as not telling the whole truth. And outside forces were at play.

I had to dig deeper. I had to find the facts. Why would horsepower virtually halve?

It turned out there were a few reasons. Salesmanship was one. Horsepower was everything so why not measure it in a salesman friendly way? Gross SAE horsepower was used. Power was measured at the flywheel with no power-hungry accessories attached. Only the bare essentials were used.

In 1972 SAE Net measurements were phased in. Power was still measured at the flywheel but all the accessories were installed including the full exhaust system, emission controls, all pumps and the alternator. SAE Net can?t be compared exactly to SAE Gross because there are just too many variations in measuring, but it is down around 80%. So power ratings dropped. In 1973 horsepower ratings went down again as power sapping emission controls were tightened.

Gross SAE horsepower had pushed the listed power up. So did the advertised horsepower some car companies used. What?s wrong with a little rounding up of the numbers for the brochure? Surely that would help sales too.

All this horsepower galloping around got noticed and not just by young guys.

Safety legislators noticed, and so did insurance companies who started charging more for insurance. The word on the street is that in 1967 a young guy under 25 with a clean driving record would have paid $700 a year for GTO coverage. Ouch! Some car companies lowered their advertised horsepower ratings.

Muscles peaked in 1970, and by 1971 they were starting to get flabbier. Engines were being detuned and within another year bigger engines were being dropped.

In 1973 many muscle cars were a shadow of their former selves. And they were finished off by the oil crisis of late ?73. Long lines at gas stations and soaring prices were a real shock, and so was a 55 mph national speed limit. Gas guzzlers were irresponsible, expensive and unwanted, it didn?t matter how much fun they were.

So there you have it. I now knew what had happened to all that brute power. Some exaggeration had pushed listed horsepower up. A fairer, more accurate measuring system brought it down. Emission controls brought it down more, and soaring insurance costs made ground-thumping power too expensive to own. The oil crisis finished the muscle car off. This case was solved.

Did you ever go to jumpstart your car, and notice that you can barely see your battery underneath all the gunk? This ‘gunk’ is actually battery corrosion, which is formed by acid condensation. Since this is formed by acid, a basic chemical solution will do the cleaning trick. Battery acid is actually very easy to clean away with a common household item- baking soda! But still, precautions must be followed. This article will inform you step by step how to clean the battery while keeping safe.

First, you will need to gather supplies for this project. Most of these items you may already have in your home.
Safety glasses or goggles
Box of baking soda
Adjustable pliers with insulated handles
Screwdrivers with insulated handles
A small, stiff-bristled brush (an old toothbrush will work just fine!)
Assorted small open-end and box wrenches
Small metal or plastic scraper
Special battery tools, including a cable puller and cable terminal cleaning brushes
A turkey baster or small funnel
All-purpose household cleaner in a spray bottle
Sponges or clean cloths
A source of ample clean water such as a garden hose or a large bucket and sponge
Rubber gloves for protecting your hands

There are a few safety tips to keep in mind when getting ready to clean the battery. First of all, you safety glasses and gloves must be worn to protect your eyes and skin from sulfuric acid that can linger in the corrosion deposits. Also, this material can eat away at your car’s paint, so keep it away from that as well.

Because the amount of dirt and corrosion on batteries may differ from one another, battery cleaning will vary, so some of the steps below may or may not need to be performed. Sometimes, to thoroughly remove severe corrosion and dirt, you may even need to remove the battery from the vehicle.

First, scrape off any white or greenish corrosion deposits with the stiff-bristled brush or small metal or plastic scraper. Next, use the solution of baking soda mixed with water, approximately one heaping tablespoon to each pint of water. Carefully apply it to the outside of the battery and its cable connections with the turkey baster or small funnel. Then, you can use your brush to work the baking soda solution into the heavily corroded areas. If you find that the cable clamps or terminals are badly corroded at the battery, you can disconnect them for easier cleaning. For this, you may need to use pliers, assorted wrenches and a small battery cable puller to disconnect them. You should disconnect the negative first, followed by the positive.

Then, use your battery cable scrapers or brush to remove the corrosion from the terminals, battery posts and hold down clamps and brackets. Flush these parts with your baking soda solution to rid them of any trace of corrosion. After this, wash the outside of the battery, the cable ends and the hold down parts with a liquid cleaner in a spray bottle. After that, use a sponge or rag to get off any remaining dirt or grease. After everything is clean, dry off the battery and all its parts with a dry rag or cloth.

The final step is just reinstalling any part that was removed and tightening everything so it is secure. Reconnect the battery, positive cable first. You’re done! You’re battery is now safe and clean.

Auto insurance, is insurance that you purchase for your cars, trucks, motorcycles and boats etc. It provides you with protection from losses that may incur as a result of a car accident. While this may sound simple enough to understand there are many types of auto insurance policies available to you and it can be rather confusing. Your coverage level and types will vary depending on the policy that you choose. In general, these are the most common types of auto insurance programs available to you:

The Different Auto Insurance Coverage Available

Collision Coverage: insures your vehicle against repairs if the vehicle is in an accident or the cost of purchasing a new vehicle if yours is damaged beyond repair.

Comprehensive Coverage: insures your vehicles against the cost of purchasing a new vehicle should yours be stolen or destroyed in a fire.

The Different Auto Insurance Coverage Protection

Personal Injury Protection (PIP) ? insures against medical expenses and lost wages related to ownership or maintenance of a vehicle. This insurance is mandatory in most states, but not all so be sure to research your state requirements prior.

Medical Payments (MP) ? insures against medical expenses for bodily injury sustained in an accident that is beyond any of the expenses that are covered by personal injury protection (PIP).

Legal liability claims against the owner or driver of the vehicle causing damage or injury to a third party involved in an accident. Liability Insurance only covers legal liability.

Comprehensive Insurance covers PIP, MP and legal Liability. In the U.S. liability insurance covers claims against the policyholder and also that of any other operator of the insured?s vehicle. If any other operators reside at the same address, they must be additionally covered on the auto insurance policy.

Comprehensive Insurance covers most details of damage which can affect the car, the driver, there is risk associated with buying a new car that is not covered even by comprehensive insurance. Basically, once the car is bought, there is a decline in the cars total value. During this period the remaining car payments exceed the value of the vehicle, thus making the compensation the insurer will pay for a totaled (destroyed) vehicle. To help with this scenario the insurer can purchase GAP insurance. GAP insurance will cover these costs. GAP insurance was established to provide protection to consumers based on the buying and market trends.

As you can see there are many different auto insurance considerations when picking a new insurance policy. Be sure you understand them all in detail and that you have the best coverage for you, your car and your family should you need it if you get into an accident. Also keep in mind that these are general guidelines and the laws may vary within your state so ask questions!

Most people don?t fully understand why they need to carry auto insurance. But it is to protect yourself, your family and your vehicle. It is for these same reasons that the law also requires you to have auto insurance coverage on all vehicles you own and operate. Each state has different auto insurance requirements, for instance the state of FL requires you to carry at least the minimum requirements which is property damage at ten thousand dollars and personal injury protection at ten thousand dollars. Make sure you know and understand what your state insurance requirements are.

There are several types of auto insurance policies to choose from that will depend on the coverage you want and the coverage you can afford. But where do you start? It can all be very confusing at first but we are going to help you understand auto insurance policy basics to make your decision easier.

First, do you have enough auto insurance coverage in case of an accident? By law you have the minim required coverage, however there is another insurance coverage that is important, bodily injury. Bodily injury coverage is not required in all states. Bodily injury would cover you in the event you are at fault in the accident and the person in the other vehicle has injuries exceeding their own personal injury coverage on their policy. If you do not carry this coverage the injured party involved has the right to sue and the state can place financial responsibility on your vehicle report, which you then have to carry for three years. The financial responsibility is called an SR22.

Uninsured motorist is another insurance coverage type you may want to have. Uninsured motorist?s coverage covers you if the other party was at fault and you were injured in the accident exceeding your personal injury coverage on your policy and the driver that caused the accident doesn?t have bodily injury coverage. This coverage can be used to cover the difference in your injuries exceeding your coverage.

Comprehensive and Collision are two more important types of insurance coverage you may want to consider. Comprehensive coverage covers your vehicle in the event of theft, vandalism, natural disasters and the like minus your auto insurance policy deductible. Collision coverage covers physical damage to your vehicle, if you should be at fault of an accident, minus your policy deductible. Your insurance company would pay the cash value of your vehicle. Most vehicles that are financed require you to carry comprehensive and collision coverage by the financing institution.

There are more options available to you, the list goes on but it all comes down to what you can afford and what you want. Keep in mind your life and your family are the most important and having the proper insurance coverage should be one of your main priorities. Use the internet to help you learn more about insurance requirements in your state. It is much easier to read and then ask questions and it allows you to pick a company you think will fit your needs with the least amount of hassle!

Some of these used car buying tips won’t be new to you. Often the trick is just to apply what you already know. On the other hand, when it comes to expensive areas of life like buying a car, one new thing learned can save you hundreds of dollars. Try some of the following.

1. Make a low offer. Okay, you knew this one. A trick you may not have used, though, is to make a low offer, and then leave your phone number with the seller. Time has a way of making sellers desperate, especially after you just helped convince them that they are asking too much.

2. Be careful with car price guides. Use the “blue book” etc, but try not to pay more than wholesale. I can’t think of many times when people I know have paid more than “bluebook,” so these “average” sales prices are doubtful.

3. Talk to people. This is one of the simplest and effective used car buying tips. Just let friends, family and others know you’re looking for a car. Quite often people would be happy to avoid the whole process of advertising and showing their car if they could just get rid of it by giving a good deal to a friend.

4. Check out the engine. Have a mechanic look at the car, and tell you what it’s likely to need in the next year or so. Then make a list, so the seller can see in writing why you are offering less than he wants.

5. Auctions. See if there is a public auction in your area. If not, maybe you can go with a dealer friend and give him a $100 to buy a car for you.

6. www.carfax.com. It’s around $25 to run vehicle background checks for a month – long enough to find your next car. They’ll show the chain of title, accident reports for the car, and even safety and reliability scores for that model.

7. “Ugly” cars. Watch for cars that sit on the lot for months. Dealers will often sell these “ugly ducklings” at a loss just to move them. Again, you may want to leave your phone number with a low offer.

8. Rental company cars. They are sold fairly cheap when they get the new ones in. Buy at bluebook wholesale or less, because they have had many different drivers, so they’ve more wear than normal.

9. Repos. Credit unions and some small banks do their own selling of repossessed cars. You usually bid on paper, maybe with a $50 deposit, and then get your $50 back if you’re not the winning bidder. If they don’t sell their own repossessions, ask where they are sold.

10. Consider gas mileage. High mileage may be better, but maybe a car that costs $500 less will use only $400 more gas in the two years you expect to own it. Do the math.

Use the tips here the next time you are shopping for a used car. Meanwhile, why not learn a few negotiating strategies. This helps in many areas of life, and is the most important of these used car buying tips.

Would you buy a used car–with cash–from someone you just met in the bar, and who walked you down a dark alley to show you the car? Not likely. How about from a well-dressed, friendly, middle-aged man or woman, who placed a classified ad in your local newspaper, and who meets you midday at a restaurant of your choice?

Oops! You may be more likely to be cheated by seller number two. That’s the story of Jennifer Warwa, who bought a minivan and had her mechanic examine it. The mechanic later said how shocked he was that Jennifer had been scammed:

“Because I met the gentleman who was selling the vehicle. Very clean cut. In his fifties. Very soft spoken…. And he went with her to get it inspected. There was just no sign that was the kind of person he was” the mechanic told CBC’s Marketplace.

A few months later, Jennifer got a phone call from the police. They said she had purchased a stolen minivan, and they were coming to seize it. She was so upset, she tried to hide the van from the police. Eventually they caught up with her and she ended up paying for a year and a half for a $5,000 bank loan on a van she could not drive. Ouch!

Jennifer was just one victim in the chain that included the original owner, the insurance company, other consumers whose insurance rates keep rising, and the police, who spend thousands of hours tracking thefts. According to the FBI, a vehicle is stolen about every 25 seconds in the USA, amounting to an $8 billion yearly problem.

Here’s how these scams often work. Thieves target particular cars: for their value, their ease of resale as a whole or in parts, or because they are easier to steal. Years ago, most cars were stripped for parts, including unusual parts such as airbags. But today some thieves are so brash they sell cars through newspapers.

This newer scam is called “VIN cloning”, because the Vehicle Identification Number is stolen from another car. Criminals obtain VINs by copying them from the dash of cars in parking lots–even at dealerships. Some even physically remove the VIN plate from vehicles in auto salvage yards that allow customers to “pick your own parts.” (They do not mean that literally!) The number is used to falsely obtain new ownership documents, or documents are forged. Either way, a cloned VIN allows them to transform stolen cars into pseudo-legal vehicles that can be officially titled and sold. Many thieves work across state lines: cars may be stolen in the East, registered in the Mid-West, then sold in California. Scary!

Here’s what you can do to avoid buying a stolen car:

** Check the VIN on the dash against the VIN in the driver’s door jamb, under the hood, and on the paperwork

** Use the VIN to get the car’s history at carfax.com for about $20

** Ensure title and registration documents match the name and address of the seller

** Is the car from out of state?

** Be suspicious if you must meet a private seller in a parking lot. Better to see that they live at the address where the car is registered

** Has the vehicle recently been transferred?

** Does the seller use a home or work phone number, or just a cell?

** Is the selling price oddly low?

** Be warned that some used car dealers are getting scammed, too

** Pay by certified cheque or money order, not cash.

Keep in mind that most private sellers are not thieves, but rather honest, regular folks like you. And prices do tend to be lower with private sales. So if you follow my advice, you can greatly improve your chances of driving away with a “genuine” used car.